
We had a much better time in Belgrade this time around. We have decided that our affinity for a city is usually determined by our lodging situation. The Belgrade Eye was a vast improvement over our last experience at The Three Black Cats, which was an apartment the size of ours turned into a smoke-filled filthy hostel. The Belgrade Eye was clean, spacious, and staffed by professional and helpful people.
On our second visit I discovered Belgrade’s charm that I overlooked on my first pass.

Kalemegdan is a massive layer cake of ancient fortresses on the bank of the Danube which has been ground zero for many dark pivotal events in history; Turkish Vizier Kara Mustapha was brought here to be strangled after he was defeated outside of Vienna and the first shots of World War I were fired at Kalemegdan from an Austrian battery on the opposite side of the river.

Zemun is located on the other side of the river and was once home to Belgrade’s Hapsburg overseers. The area still shows a stronger influence of Austrian architecture than central Belgrade.
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